29 April, 08, Bedfordshire
England and Denmark
We landed back in a sunny England on 24 April. Straight back into the M1 traffic jams!
It was lovely seeing and catching up with Amit's Dad again and experiencing spring arriving.
The next morning I was up at 5.45AM for a flight to Denmark to spend 2 days with my family in Copenhagen, catching up and playing with my niece. It was wonderful.
Back in England on the 27 April , preparing for our 2nd leg adventures and passing by the office to say HI to my LTSB colleagues.
On 1 May we are heading to Los Angeles. Rohan and Shivani - see you soon!
Sunday, 27 April 2008
Saturday, 12 April 2008
PERU
22 April 2008, Arequipa
Hasta Luego South America...
It is coming to the end of our trip in South America. We are leaving Arequipa today for Lima and flying back to the UK tomorrow evening. On the 24 April we will be back in England for 4-6 days.
We have a lot more to see in South America, and no doubt we will be back one day.
Last but not least, our family and friends have brought us wonderful news whilst we were in South America:
Meena and Iain are expecting their second child. (I am going to be an aunt again - wohoo : ))
Edith and Jens got engaged.
Dave and Christina got engaged.
Namrata and Mukul got engaged.
Ati and Michelle got engaged.
Big Congratulations to all of you!
21 April 2008, Arequipa
Arequipa
Arequipa is just like it was 5 years ago when I was here with my sister Meena. The Plaza de Armas still as white and cute with its palm trees and fountain. The Santa Catalina monastery still as colourful and pretty and the Andean museum still full of mysteries. The only disappointment was that Juanita - the ice maiden, a 500 year old well-preserved mummy that was found 150 m below the Ampato volcano in 1995 by John Reinhard was missing. She was at the laboratories and instead they had a mummy named Sarita in the museum. Nonetheless, the findings at the volcano are impressive, mysterious and open up a lot of questions of our past civilisations. It is believed that Juanita, Sarita and the other 16 mummies that have been found in both Peru (14 mummies found) and Argentina (4 mummies) were sacrifices made to the Gods of the Inkas.
Arequipa is the gateway to Chivay, the Colca Canyon - the second deepest canyon in the world, and the Cotahuisi canyon - the deepest canyon in the world. I visited Chivay and the Colca Canyon in 2003, and this time we opted to spend our few days in Arequipa just chilling and sightseeing.
19 April 2008, Arequipa
Puno to Arequipa
We arrived at our hostal at 0.45AM! Our bus was supposed to leave Puno at 6PM and get us to Arequipa at 11PM. Several agencies had advised that the bus company Julsa was great - direct bus to Arequipa - no problem. No it wasn´t. It was actually our worst bus journey in South America. Yes, it was cheap (15 soles = $6 for a 5 hour journey) and we know why now. It only left Puno at 6.45PM and it made several stops along the way picking and dropping off people. My seat was constantly falling backwards and the window next to me was rattling, while Amit had a passenger literally leaning on his knees with her seat. And the smell in the bus! No toilets onboard which we were told there was. I just could not wait to get to Arequipa. At 0.45AM, it was obviously pitch black and there was no hostal pick-up due to our very delayed arrival. The queue was long for a taxi, but the next taxi driver shouted at a customer not to get into his car and he ran towards us, asking if we wanted a cab. Another cab driver got annoyed and said "why are you taking them, they are at the back of the queue". Our taxi driver replied "dollares, dollares". Hmmm. Well, he did not get dollars from us, he got 5 soles for the journey to our hostal. Alas, showers and a nice bed!
18 April 2008, Puno
Uros Islands
Amantani Island
Taquille Island
(17 April) Got picked up at 7.30AM to meet our group going to the Lake Titicaca. The Lake Titicaca is shared between Bolivia and Peru. Peru owns 60 % of it.
We took a boat to the Uros Islands. The Uros Islands are man-made islands made of reed and inhabited by natives. The islands are so soft to walk on. Just like the islands, the natives here are bright in the colourful clothes. Never seen islands like this.
After a bit of a guided tour, we went on the boat for another 2 hours to the Amantani islands, where we were going to stay with local natives. We were greeted by our "Mama" called Norma. We walked for about 50 minutes uphill in the heat to get to Norma's house. It consisted of 3 rooms surrounding a tiny court yard, a separate kitchen and a toilet which was basically tin doors and a pot. We stayed at Norma's for 1 night - slept and ate there. It was an interesting experience. We really looked forward to this and also realised that the natives on the Amantani were quite used to seeing tourists and having them stay around. We tried to learn as much as we could about their lives on the island. They spoke Spanish and so did we brokenly. Sometimes, it felt that we were just there for business, while other group members has shared great chats with their host families. We tried to help in the kitchen and to be part, but we were made to eat at separate times and not with the family. Don't get this wrong, we had a wonderful time and experience, we probably expected too much. We wanted to learn new things, about another way of living and we did live very basic for 1 night. 1 night is nothing and maybe we expected too much. The island itself is stunning. Amazing views over the Lake Titicaca and ruins on the top of the island, yellow hay fields and purple flower fields. An idyllic setting.
We also got to experience the native dancing. We were dressed in local native wear and danced the folk dance in the community hall with the locals. That was fun.
The next morning, we said goodbye to our hosts and went back on the boat to Taquille Island for a walk and lunch. This island is a lot more developed. Also amazing views here and ruins.
It is recommended to do the Isla Sol and Isla Luna islands from the Bolivian side. They are supposed to be completely different to the Peruvian islands of Uros, Taquille and Amantani.
We wanted to catch the sun-rise, so we boarded the first bus to Machu Picchu at 5.30am. The queue was very long and 4 buses took the eager tourists up the hilly roads to Machu Picchu. We were lucky, we got to the site and sat there waiting for the sun to arise and hit each mountain peak. The day was so clear that we could see snow-capped mountains in the background. (I did not see this back in 2003). It was nice to take photos with no tourists.
We wanted to climb the Wayna Picchu. Only 400 people are allowed to climb each day. We went up as the 40th and 41st person. It is a tricky mountain to trek, it is very steep and muddy and not many places to hold a rope. I was constantly worried about Amit climbing with one arm in a sling. But he did amazingly well. I am very proud of him. Last time I climbed Wayna Picchu in 2003, I suffered vertigo for the first time in my life. I was conscious that this might be the case again, but I wanted to overcome this fear. I had to make it to the top without fear. I did it. The view is beautiful but just as beautiful a bit further down before you climb up some very narrow and steep stairs in a small cave. You literally have to crawl your way to. The top was full of people and crazy locals jumping from one rock to another when it is so steep and dangerous.
When we got down the Wayna Picchu it was 10.15am and 290 people were up climbing and the queue very long! We chose the right time. We walked around the ruins for hours and walked down the offbeat track on the sides of the ruins going towards the hilly roads to Aguas Caliente. I will never seize to admire this site. It is magical, but you must come as early as possible as the crowds of people sort of spoils the magic.
We had food in Aguas Caliente before going back to Cusco on our long train journey.
12 April 2008, Aguas Caliente
AGUAS CALIENTE
There are several ways of getting to Machu Picchu:
1) the classic Inka trail from Km 82 (4 days)
2) the Salkantay trail (5 days)
3) the Lares trek (2 days)
4) other tailored treks
5) by bus/train from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, change here for another bus to Machu Picchu
6) by train from Cusco to Aguas Caliente, change here for bus to Machu Picchu
We chose option 6. There is only one train a day on the Backpackers train (the cheapest train for a tourist - US$48 per person one way). There is the much cheaper one of 9 soles per person, which only locals are allowed to travel on. Then you have the much pricier ones Vistadome (US$98 p.p one way) or Hiram Bingham trains (US$400 + p.p one way!).
The inka tour groups were full up until August and with Amit's dislocation, we could not take any risks. We took the backpacker train from Cusco to Aguas Caliente. We met an interesting man on the train. A retired billionaire who had boarded the wrong train (he had booked the luxury train). Jim, was his name, he was Greek from Boston, in his early 40s, previously owned his own companies, a yacht and two jets and one day gave it all up. He was a corporate machine who wanted everything bigger and better than anyone else. 8 years ago he walked into his office and didn't like it, so he sold his company and has been travelling for 8 years and has no intention of ever working again. So those people do exist out there.
It was low season in Aguas Caliente, so it was possible to bargain in every eatery. We had a room facing the Urubamba river and the water was so loud. Really cool!
11 April 2008, Cusco
SACRED VALLEY
Pisac Ruins
Ollantaytambo
Chinchero
Today, we visited the Sacred Valley, through which the Urubamba river runs through. A very fertile valley which always has water and plenty of food for the locals.
From the Sacred Valley we drove to the Pisac ruins with massive terrasses, the Ollantaytambo ruins - an unfinished fortess and ceremonial centre and Chinchero - inka ruins in a small village.
If you come to Peru, you must see the Ollantaytambo. Make sure you are fit to climb the inka stairs.
10 April 2008, Cusco
Cusco
Quirokancha
Sacsaywuman
Qéngo
Pukapukara
Tambochay
It is great being back. I love Cusco! A beautiful town with colonial buildings and surrounded by mountains. It has hilly, cobblestoned alleys and near many inka sites. 5 years ago it was not as touristy as it is now. There are a lot more shops now, it is more expensive (prices have doubled since my last visit!) and you are quite often followed by touts. Yes, it can be annoying, nonetheless I still adore this place.
I had difficulty adjusting to the altitude and I had to stop several times to catch my breath. Amit seemed to be coping better.
We stayed at the El Triunfe in San Blas, lovely and personal staff but overpriced. Oh well. Days later we moved to Amaru 1 Hostal with better airy rooms and wonderful breakfast, but the staff confused and seriously need service training.
Today, we went on a day tour covering various inka sites such as Quirokancha - inka temples within a cathedral, Sacsaywuman - 1 km uphill from Cusco - an inka fortress and ceremonial centre, shaped as the head of a puma, Qéngo - a labyrinth type inka ceremonial place, Pukapukara - an inka fortress, Tambochay - an inka water fountain, it is said that if you drink the water from here, you will stay eternally young. From Sacsaywuman you have beautiful views all over Cusco. (It is said that Cusco was built in the shape of a puma. The inkas believed in 3 world, the upper world represented by the Condor, the middle world - represented by the puma and the under world represented by the snake. )
Amit also had an appointment with a local traumatologist (as they call it here in Peru) for his shoulder.
8 April 2008, Lima
With Amit´s dislocation, we abandoned the idea of bussing it to Peru, so we caught a flight to Lima yesterday. We had booked a hotel over the internet, and when we got there I realised that I had stayed at this very hotel in 2003 with my sister. How funny. We stayed in Lima Centro, (most tourists stay in the Miraflores area by the coast) and enjoyed hanging out around the Plaza de Armas.
We caught a flight in the evening to Cusco.
Hasta Luego South America...
It is coming to the end of our trip in South America. We are leaving Arequipa today for Lima and flying back to the UK tomorrow evening. On the 24 April we will be back in England for 4-6 days.
We have a lot more to see in South America, and no doubt we will be back one day.
Last but not least, our family and friends have brought us wonderful news whilst we were in South America:
Meena and Iain are expecting their second child. (I am going to be an aunt again - wohoo : ))
Edith and Jens got engaged.
Dave and Christina got engaged.
Namrata and Mukul got engaged.
Ati and Michelle got engaged.
Big Congratulations to all of you!
21 April 2008, Arequipa
Arequipa
Arequipa is just like it was 5 years ago when I was here with my sister Meena. The Plaza de Armas still as white and cute with its palm trees and fountain. The Santa Catalina monastery still as colourful and pretty and the Andean museum still full of mysteries. The only disappointment was that Juanita - the ice maiden, a 500 year old well-preserved mummy that was found 150 m below the Ampato volcano in 1995 by John Reinhard was missing. She was at the laboratories and instead they had a mummy named Sarita in the museum. Nonetheless, the findings at the volcano are impressive, mysterious and open up a lot of questions of our past civilisations. It is believed that Juanita, Sarita and the other 16 mummies that have been found in both Peru (14 mummies found) and Argentina (4 mummies) were sacrifices made to the Gods of the Inkas.
Arequipa is the gateway to Chivay, the Colca Canyon - the second deepest canyon in the world, and the Cotahuisi canyon - the deepest canyon in the world. I visited Chivay and the Colca Canyon in 2003, and this time we opted to spend our few days in Arequipa just chilling and sightseeing.
19 April 2008, Arequipa
Puno to Arequipa
We arrived at our hostal at 0.45AM! Our bus was supposed to leave Puno at 6PM and get us to Arequipa at 11PM. Several agencies had advised that the bus company Julsa was great - direct bus to Arequipa - no problem. No it wasn´t. It was actually our worst bus journey in South America. Yes, it was cheap (15 soles = $6 for a 5 hour journey) and we know why now. It only left Puno at 6.45PM and it made several stops along the way picking and dropping off people. My seat was constantly falling backwards and the window next to me was rattling, while Amit had a passenger literally leaning on his knees with her seat. And the smell in the bus! No toilets onboard which we were told there was. I just could not wait to get to Arequipa. At 0.45AM, it was obviously pitch black and there was no hostal pick-up due to our very delayed arrival. The queue was long for a taxi, but the next taxi driver shouted at a customer not to get into his car and he ran towards us, asking if we wanted a cab. Another cab driver got annoyed and said "why are you taking them, they are at the back of the queue". Our taxi driver replied "dollares, dollares". Hmmm. Well, he did not get dollars from us, he got 5 soles for the journey to our hostal. Alas, showers and a nice bed!
18 April 2008, Puno
Uros Islands
Amantani Island
Taquille Island
(17 April) Got picked up at 7.30AM to meet our group going to the Lake Titicaca. The Lake Titicaca is shared between Bolivia and Peru. Peru owns 60 % of it.
We took a boat to the Uros Islands. The Uros Islands are man-made islands made of reed and inhabited by natives. The islands are so soft to walk on. Just like the islands, the natives here are bright in the colourful clothes. Never seen islands like this.
After a bit of a guided tour, we went on the boat for another 2 hours to the Amantani islands, where we were going to stay with local natives. We were greeted by our "Mama" called Norma. We walked for about 50 minutes uphill in the heat to get to Norma's house. It consisted of 3 rooms surrounding a tiny court yard, a separate kitchen and a toilet which was basically tin doors and a pot. We stayed at Norma's for 1 night - slept and ate there. It was an interesting experience. We really looked forward to this and also realised that the natives on the Amantani were quite used to seeing tourists and having them stay around. We tried to learn as much as we could about their lives on the island. They spoke Spanish and so did we brokenly. Sometimes, it felt that we were just there for business, while other group members has shared great chats with their host families. We tried to help in the kitchen and to be part, but we were made to eat at separate times and not with the family. Don't get this wrong, we had a wonderful time and experience, we probably expected too much. We wanted to learn new things, about another way of living and we did live very basic for 1 night. 1 night is nothing and maybe we expected too much. The island itself is stunning. Amazing views over the Lake Titicaca and ruins on the top of the island, yellow hay fields and purple flower fields. An idyllic setting.
We also got to experience the native dancing. We were dressed in local native wear and danced the folk dance in the community hall with the locals. That was fun.
The next morning, we said goodbye to our hosts and went back on the boat to Taquille Island for a walk and lunch. This island is a lot more developed. Also amazing views here and ruins.
It is recommended to do the Isla Sol and Isla Luna islands from the Bolivian side. They are supposed to be completely different to the Peruvian islands of Uros, Taquille and Amantani.
16 April 08, Puno
Puno - gateway to Lake Titicaca
We arrived in Puno today from Cusco. Unfortunately, you have to make your journey to Puno, if you want to visit the Lake Titicaca - the highest navigatable lake in the world. I say unfortunately, because there is not much to do in Puno.
14 - 16 April 08, Cusco
Last days in Cusco
Cusco is such a place that you could spend days just relaxing and watching the days go by. We spent our last days travelling on the tram around Cusco and taking us to the Christ statue and Sacsaywuman, shopping for a painting which will fill our future walls and eating at lovely restaurants such as the Fallen Angel - a favourite of mine. (The second time for me in 5 years.)
13 April 2008, Aguas CalienteWe wanted to catch the sun-rise, so we boarded the first bus to Machu Picchu at 5.30am. The queue was very long and 4 buses took the eager tourists up the hilly roads to Machu Picchu. We were lucky, we got to the site and sat there waiting for the sun to arise and hit each mountain peak. The day was so clear that we could see snow-capped mountains in the background. (I did not see this back in 2003). It was nice to take photos with no tourists.
We wanted to climb the Wayna Picchu. Only 400 people are allowed to climb each day. We went up as the 40th and 41st person. It is a tricky mountain to trek, it is very steep and muddy and not many places to hold a rope. I was constantly worried about Amit climbing with one arm in a sling. But he did amazingly well. I am very proud of him. Last time I climbed Wayna Picchu in 2003, I suffered vertigo for the first time in my life. I was conscious that this might be the case again, but I wanted to overcome this fear. I had to make it to the top without fear. I did it. The view is beautiful but just as beautiful a bit further down before you climb up some very narrow and steep stairs in a small cave. You literally have to crawl your way to. The top was full of people and crazy locals jumping from one rock to another when it is so steep and dangerous.
When we got down the Wayna Picchu it was 10.15am and 290 people were up climbing and the queue very long! We chose the right time. We walked around the ruins for hours and walked down the offbeat track on the sides of the ruins going towards the hilly roads to Aguas Caliente. I will never seize to admire this site. It is magical, but you must come as early as possible as the crowds of people sort of spoils the magic.
We had food in Aguas Caliente before going back to Cusco on our long train journey.
12 April 2008, Aguas Caliente
AGUAS CALIENTE
There are several ways of getting to Machu Picchu:
1) the classic Inka trail from Km 82 (4 days)
2) the Salkantay trail (5 days)
3) the Lares trek (2 days)
4) other tailored treks
5) by bus/train from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, change here for another bus to Machu Picchu
6) by train from Cusco to Aguas Caliente, change here for bus to Machu Picchu
We chose option 6. There is only one train a day on the Backpackers train (the cheapest train for a tourist - US$48 per person one way). There is the much cheaper one of 9 soles per person, which only locals are allowed to travel on. Then you have the much pricier ones Vistadome (US$98 p.p one way) or Hiram Bingham trains (US$400 + p.p one way!).
The inka tour groups were full up until August and with Amit's dislocation, we could not take any risks. We took the backpacker train from Cusco to Aguas Caliente. We met an interesting man on the train. A retired billionaire who had boarded the wrong train (he had booked the luxury train). Jim, was his name, he was Greek from Boston, in his early 40s, previously owned his own companies, a yacht and two jets and one day gave it all up. He was a corporate machine who wanted everything bigger and better than anyone else. 8 years ago he walked into his office and didn't like it, so he sold his company and has been travelling for 8 years and has no intention of ever working again. So those people do exist out there.
It was low season in Aguas Caliente, so it was possible to bargain in every eatery. We had a room facing the Urubamba river and the water was so loud. Really cool!
11 April 2008, Cusco
SACRED VALLEY
Pisac Ruins
Ollantaytambo
Chinchero
Today, we visited the Sacred Valley, through which the Urubamba river runs through. A very fertile valley which always has water and plenty of food for the locals.
From the Sacred Valley we drove to the Pisac ruins with massive terrasses, the Ollantaytambo ruins - an unfinished fortess and ceremonial centre and Chinchero - inka ruins in a small village.
If you come to Peru, you must see the Ollantaytambo. Make sure you are fit to climb the inka stairs.
10 April 2008, Cusco
Cusco
Quirokancha
Sacsaywuman
Qéngo
Pukapukara
Tambochay
It is great being back. I love Cusco! A beautiful town with colonial buildings and surrounded by mountains. It has hilly, cobblestoned alleys and near many inka sites. 5 years ago it was not as touristy as it is now. There are a lot more shops now, it is more expensive (prices have doubled since my last visit!) and you are quite often followed by touts. Yes, it can be annoying, nonetheless I still adore this place.
I had difficulty adjusting to the altitude and I had to stop several times to catch my breath. Amit seemed to be coping better.
We stayed at the El Triunfe in San Blas, lovely and personal staff but overpriced. Oh well. Days later we moved to Amaru 1 Hostal with better airy rooms and wonderful breakfast, but the staff confused and seriously need service training.
Today, we went on a day tour covering various inka sites such as Quirokancha - inka temples within a cathedral, Sacsaywuman - 1 km uphill from Cusco - an inka fortress and ceremonial centre, shaped as the head of a puma, Qéngo - a labyrinth type inka ceremonial place, Pukapukara - an inka fortress, Tambochay - an inka water fountain, it is said that if you drink the water from here, you will stay eternally young. From Sacsaywuman you have beautiful views all over Cusco. (It is said that Cusco was built in the shape of a puma. The inkas believed in 3 world, the upper world represented by the Condor, the middle world - represented by the puma and the under world represented by the snake. )
Amit also had an appointment with a local traumatologist (as they call it here in Peru) for his shoulder.
8 April 2008, Lima
With Amit´s dislocation, we abandoned the idea of bussing it to Peru, so we caught a flight to Lima yesterday. We had booked a hotel over the internet, and when we got there I realised that I had stayed at this very hotel in 2003 with my sister. How funny. We stayed in Lima Centro, (most tourists stay in the Miraflores area by the coast) and enjoyed hanging out around the Plaza de Armas.
We caught a flight in the evening to Cusco.
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