Having seen many new parts of the world, here is my top list of the experiences on this world journey (as of August 2008):
Favourite country: Ecuador
Most beautiful country: Mongolia
Most travel-friendly country: New Zealand
Most environment-friendly country: New Zealand
Most eco-friendly country: New Zealand
Loveliest people: Ecuador
Most threathening experience: in China
Coldest experience: Mongolia
Hottest experience: Darwin, Australia
Cleanest place: New Zealand
Most polluted place: Beijing
Most humid experience: Singapore
Wettest experience: getting drenched on the 3 hours Lopes Mendes trek in Ilha Grande, Brazil
Heaviest rainfall: Brazil
Best beach: Galapagos Islands (Isla Espanol), Ecuador
Best wildlife: Galapagos Islands
Best snorkelling and swimming: Galapagos Islands (Devil's Crown)
Most powerful waterfall: Foz Iguasu, Argentinian side
Most beautiful sunset: Galapagos Island
Most beautiful star-filled sky: while on deck on the yacht recovering from sea sickness on the Galapagos Island (never seen anything so bright - was like a dream)
Most isolated place: Mongolia
Most surreal place: Galapagos Islands
Most spiritual place: Mongolia
Most colourful experience: Naadam Festival in Mongolia and Rio Carnival in Rio de Janeiro
Best food: Korea, and very close after Singapore
Best steak: Argentina
Worst food experience: Mongolia
Best drink: Green mango shake in Malaysia
Worst drink: Horse milk in Mongolia (tastes like very old, sour milk)
Best group tour: The Amazon trip with Amit, Alex, Judy, David, Helen, Brittany, Paul and Mayuko.
Best hostel: The Amazon Inn, Quito, Ecuador
Worst hostel: Mata Virgem, Ilha Grande, Brazil (seriously DON'T got there)
Best hotel: The Andaman, Datai Bay, Langkawi, Malaysia
Best night out: Salsa night in Quito with the Amazon crew
Country I would most want to live in, if distance was no problem: New Zealand
Countries I could definitely try out: Singapore, Korea, Australia
Monday, 15 September 2008
THE END IS NEAR
August 08, Hong Kong
We are coming to the end of our journey - and what a journey it has been. It has been full of new and amazing encounters and it has taught us so many new things. On one hand the world has become smaller to us because we have explored so much more of it, and on the other hand it has become bigger because our knowledge has grown, our meetings with people and new cultures and history have opened doors to understanding more of the world and the way people think differently and live life differently to yours.
For me, this journey was not just travelling to see the world. It was a life journey of learning new things about other places, people and ways of thinking as well as learning new things about myself. It was a journey of seeing the world with the most special person by my side. About growing together and taking in the beauty around you together. Now we have memories for life.
To my soul mate, travel partner and best friend - Thank you.
The journey has been the best experience of my life. We had ups and downs on the trip - the downs being Amit's dislocation and restricting him from doing certain things, Tibet being shut when we were going there, the monsoon taking over Nepal so that the Everest/Langtang trek were impossible to do and the China experience (!). But now when we look back, we just laugh at it. All the good outweighed all the unfortunate circumstances in every sense and you can't do everything, you can only strive to do it and you should appreciate what you do manage to do.
I feel a sensational energy from every little experience we have had. I did my first parachute jump, I swam with sea lions, giant turtles, marine iguanas and sharks and sting rays around me. I climbed glaciers and volcanos and Wayna Picchu once again. We lived out of a backpack for months and realised how little you really need in this world and we were fine. We were very well and happy out in the nature. I could go on and on.....
In essence, it has been a fantastic and eye-opening journey and now I am ready to see the "world" we left in England. I am excited to go back to see my family and friends, I am exciting to see how world has changed at home (if it has) and excited about making changes on my return.
Our last night in Honkers with Vishal - and we are still partying...so there will be a very tired Meera on the flight...
We are coming to the end of our journey - and what a journey it has been. It has been full of new and amazing encounters and it has taught us so many new things. On one hand the world has become smaller to us because we have explored so much more of it, and on the other hand it has become bigger because our knowledge has grown, our meetings with people and new cultures and history have opened doors to understanding more of the world and the way people think differently and live life differently to yours.
For me, this journey was not just travelling to see the world. It was a life journey of learning new things about other places, people and ways of thinking as well as learning new things about myself. It was a journey of seeing the world with the most special person by my side. About growing together and taking in the beauty around you together. Now we have memories for life.
To my soul mate, travel partner and best friend - Thank you.
The journey has been the best experience of my life. We had ups and downs on the trip - the downs being Amit's dislocation and restricting him from doing certain things, Tibet being shut when we were going there, the monsoon taking over Nepal so that the Everest/Langtang trek were impossible to do and the China experience (!). But now when we look back, we just laugh at it. All the good outweighed all the unfortunate circumstances in every sense and you can't do everything, you can only strive to do it and you should appreciate what you do manage to do.
I feel a sensational energy from every little experience we have had. I did my first parachute jump, I swam with sea lions, giant turtles, marine iguanas and sharks and sting rays around me. I climbed glaciers and volcanos and Wayna Picchu once again. We lived out of a backpack for months and realised how little you really need in this world and we were fine. We were very well and happy out in the nature. I could go on and on.....
In essence, it has been a fantastic and eye-opening journey and now I am ready to see the "world" we left in England. I am excited to go back to see my family and friends, I am exciting to see how world has changed at home (if it has) and excited about making changes on my return.
Our last night in Honkers with Vishal - and we are still partying...so there will be a very tired Meera on the flight...
HONG KONG
31 July 08, Hong Kong
Arrived yesterday from Seoul. We are staying with Vishal who has been a great host. He has a 2 bedroom flat in Central and the view from his balcony is cool. It has been eating good Shanghainese food and going to fancy bars. A real expats place and some roads feel like being in Europe.
Yesterday, we went to a bar in Princess Building where (Mayer Brown has an office) - we were not allowed into the bar, as we were all wearing flip flops ; ). So we went for food near Time Square to a Shanghainese place. Great dimsum and spicy. Home at 2AM.
We have been to Victoria Peak by tram overlooking the river and the lights over the water at night. Very pretty. Also been to big shopping centres, the Wang Chai market, lots of bars and restaurants. We also met up with Adrian from my Peru 2003 trip - who currently works in Hong Kong.
I think our days in Honkers will be one big party ; )
.....and they were...:)
Arrived yesterday from Seoul. We are staying with Vishal who has been a great host. He has a 2 bedroom flat in Central and the view from his balcony is cool. It has been eating good Shanghainese food and going to fancy bars. A real expats place and some roads feel like being in Europe.
Yesterday, we went to a bar in Princess Building where (Mayer Brown has an office) - we were not allowed into the bar, as we were all wearing flip flops ; ). So we went for food near Time Square to a Shanghainese place. Great dimsum and spicy. Home at 2AM.
We have been to Victoria Peak by tram overlooking the river and the lights over the water at night. Very pretty. Also been to big shopping centres, the Wang Chai market, lots of bars and restaurants. We also met up with Adrian from my Peru 2003 trip - who currently works in Hong Kong.
I think our days in Honkers will be one big party ; )
.....and they were...:)
SOUTH KOREA
24 July 08, Seoul
Stormy flight, so had to crash land in another city. Finally landed in Seoul at 6.20AM.
Our experience in South Korea has been a nice surprise for us. We stayed in a hotel Astoria near Dongdaemun. A 3-4 star hotel which we got at a discounted rate - there is some promotion on.
We really like Korea. It is vibrant and lively and people are very friendly - very opposit to what we experienced in Erlian! The people dress trendy and most girls have fringes. We can't believe how little time we have left of our world tour. Over here in Asia, things seem to be thriving. The South East Asian countries are doing well and not yet affected by the world economy.
We had our first Korean BBQ food - so yummy. You get marinated meat - lots of it and they cook it for you on a big round hot plate on your table. It comes with lots of side dishes such as spinach leaves, pickled cucumber, pickled cabbage (Kimmchi), pickled all sorts, the food is delicious.
South Korea is surprisingly modern. The toilet has a machine on it with 14 functions. The taxis have a translation service - you dial a number and someone will pick up who speaks English.
Not as cheap as some Asian countries, but still cheap.
We stayed in a guest house for one night where we met other backpackers such as Amy and Terence.
We went to the 3rd tunnel between South and North Korea - which was educational and sad to hear about. The troubles between the South and North Koreans is so unnecessary. We had gone on a one-day tour. The trip also got us to the ginseng shop - so expensive.
The Korean people are so friendly and respectable. We went to a local restaurant and the owner started speaking to Amit. He went back to his desk and while he was eating, he looked up at Amit and smiled and then handed out some coins, wanting to buy a coffee for Amit. Amit got up and said "Meera, look he has given me money to buy a coffee", when the man saw that he got up and gave Amit some more coins and bought me a coffee too. That was so kind. We had a photo of him and he said "Beckham" and then thought of other English names.
Met up with Sue - Korean local girl who we met through couchsurfing.com . She introduced us to lovely Korean food and showed us how to eat it, loved the Korean pancake and the chicken broth. Had a great time.
27 July 08
Had brunch in Myengdong - the shopping area and then went to Seoul Station to buy our tickets for Gyeng'Ju for the next day. We went sightseeing and visited the National Folk Museum and the Gyeongbokgung Palace. We saw a guard walk/show in old Korean costumes. As we were walking, we were stopped by a really funny Korean guy, who asked if we could take a photo of him. He asked where we were from, and then he mentioned all the international football players and he started singing the national songs of the Italy, Scotland and France. He spoke like a tape recorder and we were just watching him and gobsmacked how funny it was. He told Amit how much he liked Beckham and as he learnt that I was Danish he said - "I like Lego too!" hahahaha - we were entertained. He then bowed to us, while walking away, saying "thank you thank you, see you again, see you in your country".
Went to a shopping mall where the had good deals on watches. Dark blue and silver rado - nice.
In the evening, we had dinner with local Korean Kim - the guy Amit found on couchsurfing.com, in Sincheon. Great food, good price in a trendy student type hangout. Big beers, snacks and yummy Korean dishes. It was really interesting meeting and talking to a local - Kim was really cool and friendly and told us stories of his time in the army (had to tie his legs together every day for 2 years to sleep straight) and his travelling.
28 July 08
Left hotel at 9Am, took taxi to Seoul St. Took the KTX train to Gyeong'Ju via Dongdaemun. Nice clean trains, very comfy, great service. The hostess bow to everyone, and as the AC was not working in our carriage, a conductor told us that we could move to another carriage and then he gave us a ice drenched face towel and a hand fan. Lovely. Train journey was 2,5 hours.
Had lunch in a small local restaurant and took taxi to hotel - 1800 Won.
After checking in, we took a local bus 10 to Bulgaksa Temple (pretty) and then to Seokguram Grotto (buddha statues in granite in a small grotto). Had dinner close to our hostel, very spicy. Hardly anyone speaks English here. All very friendly. You share everything on a big pan. If you don't share - you give a bad impression.
Gyeong'Ju is beautiful - lots of flower fields, tombs, open air museum feel with all the historic building/monuments. So glad we came here.
29 July 08
Went to Tumuli Park which has various tombs with green chocolate hills-like nature. It has the Cheon Ma tomb amongst others. Went on to Gyeong'Ju National Museu, Anapji Pond and the stunning flower gardens. Had lunch in a local place where no one spoke English, luckily there was a man - a customer who was travelled from Seoul who spoke some English and helped us translate the Korean menu. We took the 5.12PM train back to Seoul. Had dinner in Myeongdong.
Last night in Korea.
30 July 08
Left hotel at 11.30AM and took bus to airport. Great shopping in duty free. Had overpricy Korean food which was awful - what a shame! Good 3 hours flight to Hong Kong. Service very good.
Stormy flight, so had to crash land in another city. Finally landed in Seoul at 6.20AM.
Our experience in South Korea has been a nice surprise for us. We stayed in a hotel Astoria near Dongdaemun. A 3-4 star hotel which we got at a discounted rate - there is some promotion on.
We really like Korea. It is vibrant and lively and people are very friendly - very opposit to what we experienced in Erlian! The people dress trendy and most girls have fringes. We can't believe how little time we have left of our world tour. Over here in Asia, things seem to be thriving. The South East Asian countries are doing well and not yet affected by the world economy.
We had our first Korean BBQ food - so yummy. You get marinated meat - lots of it and they cook it for you on a big round hot plate on your table. It comes with lots of side dishes such as spinach leaves, pickled cucumber, pickled cabbage (Kimmchi), pickled all sorts, the food is delicious.
South Korea is surprisingly modern. The toilet has a machine on it with 14 functions. The taxis have a translation service - you dial a number and someone will pick up who speaks English.
Not as cheap as some Asian countries, but still cheap.
We stayed in a guest house for one night where we met other backpackers such as Amy and Terence.
We went to the 3rd tunnel between South and North Korea - which was educational and sad to hear about. The troubles between the South and North Koreans is so unnecessary. We had gone on a one-day tour. The trip also got us to the ginseng shop - so expensive.
The Korean people are so friendly and respectable. We went to a local restaurant and the owner started speaking to Amit. He went back to his desk and while he was eating, he looked up at Amit and smiled and then handed out some coins, wanting to buy a coffee for Amit. Amit got up and said "Meera, look he has given me money to buy a coffee", when the man saw that he got up and gave Amit some more coins and bought me a coffee too. That was so kind. We had a photo of him and he said "Beckham" and then thought of other English names.
Met up with Sue - Korean local girl who we met through couchsurfing.com . She introduced us to lovely Korean food and showed us how to eat it, loved the Korean pancake and the chicken broth. Had a great time.
27 July 08
Had brunch in Myengdong - the shopping area and then went to Seoul Station to buy our tickets for Gyeng'Ju for the next day. We went sightseeing and visited the National Folk Museum and the Gyeongbokgung Palace. We saw a guard walk/show in old Korean costumes. As we were walking, we were stopped by a really funny Korean guy, who asked if we could take a photo of him. He asked where we were from, and then he mentioned all the international football players and he started singing the national songs of the Italy, Scotland and France. He spoke like a tape recorder and we were just watching him and gobsmacked how funny it was. He told Amit how much he liked Beckham and as he learnt that I was Danish he said - "I like Lego too!" hahahaha - we were entertained. He then bowed to us, while walking away, saying "thank you thank you, see you again, see you in your country".
Went to a shopping mall where the had good deals on watches. Dark blue and silver rado - nice.
In the evening, we had dinner with local Korean Kim - the guy Amit found on couchsurfing.com, in Sincheon. Great food, good price in a trendy student type hangout. Big beers, snacks and yummy Korean dishes. It was really interesting meeting and talking to a local - Kim was really cool and friendly and told us stories of his time in the army (had to tie his legs together every day for 2 years to sleep straight) and his travelling.
28 July 08
Left hotel at 9Am, took taxi to Seoul St. Took the KTX train to Gyeong'Ju via Dongdaemun. Nice clean trains, very comfy, great service. The hostess bow to everyone, and as the AC was not working in our carriage, a conductor told us that we could move to another carriage and then he gave us a ice drenched face towel and a hand fan. Lovely. Train journey was 2,5 hours.
Had lunch in a small local restaurant and took taxi to hotel - 1800 Won.
After checking in, we took a local bus 10 to Bulgaksa Temple (pretty) and then to Seokguram Grotto (buddha statues in granite in a small grotto). Had dinner close to our hostel, very spicy. Hardly anyone speaks English here. All very friendly. You share everything on a big pan. If you don't share - you give a bad impression.
Gyeong'Ju is beautiful - lots of flower fields, tombs, open air museum feel with all the historic building/monuments. So glad we came here.
29 July 08
Went to Tumuli Park which has various tombs with green chocolate hills-like nature. It has the Cheon Ma tomb amongst others. Went on to Gyeong'Ju National Museu, Anapji Pond and the stunning flower gardens. Had lunch in a local place where no one spoke English, luckily there was a man - a customer who was travelled from Seoul who spoke some English and helped us translate the Korean menu. We took the 5.12PM train back to Seoul. Had dinner in Myeongdong.
Last night in Korea.
30 July 08
Left hotel at 11.30AM and took bus to airport. Great shopping in duty free. Had overpricy Korean food which was awful - what a shame! Good 3 hours flight to Hong Kong. Service very good.
ONCE AGAIN IN MONGOLIA...
20 July 08, Ulaanbator
Yes, it was all a bit of a shock, but we are fine and sorting ourselves out now in Mongolia. we have looked at options and we have decided we want to avoid China, as it might give us a lot of problems again and we don't want to take any more risks. The best option would have been to get the visa again! and then go to Beijing and see the bits we haven't seen yet of China and then go to Hong Kong. But with the visa situation, nothing is guaranteed - how long it will take to get the visa. We met a couple from England who were stuck in Mongolia for 3 weeks waiting for their China visa. So we have decided we will instead go to Korea for 6 - 7 days before we go to Hong Kong. We do not need any visa for Korea and we don't need any visa for Hong Kong. We are planning to fly from Mongolia to Korea on 24th July. Everything is getting back into place again, and we are still laughing at our bad luck with China, and sometimes things are just not meant to be.
We are back in Oyuna hostel and the travellers we met before we headed for China were stunned to see us again. Some, terrified, as they were next to travel to China..
We spent our first night trying to figure out how we could get out of the country by going from travel agency to agency. As we got back to the hostel, we had a power cut and all of us in the hostel sat outdoors in the dark in the court yard just chatting. There were 8 of us - Americans, Danes and Brits. Most were working in China/Korea as English teachers.
We had a good few days to explore Ulaanbator further. We went to Ganden Monastery just near our hostel - it is lovely. Inside one of the temples it has a giant Buddha in golden colour. I managed to sneak a photo of it.
We went to a Thai restaurant with Michael Boedker - the Dane we met in our hostel. We were the only customer along with 4 people sitting at another table. 3 of them were Danish and one was American. One of the Danish girls got up and opened her top and went to the fan/cooler to cool down her front parts, the other Danish girl said "what are you doing", the first one answered "I have sweat between my tits" in Danish, Michael and I laughed, and then the second girl said "they are laughing at you", the first one said "who those there and she looked towards us", and then I answered in Danish "that is because we understand every word of what you are saying". She was so embarrassed and her friends could not stop laughing and the Danish guy with them said "never have I experienced this, this has got to be the funniest moment ever" - you should have been there to see their faces.
On our way home from the restaurant, we had the same 3-4 kids run at us and try to touch our pockets and standing in our ways. They had blocked our way the night before, when we were walking back to our hostel. One of the kids literally grabbed Amit's arms and his pockets and kept trying to hang on to him, Amit could have smacked him one, but he was a 11-13 year old and so he just pushed him off. They were so adamant, I was screaming at them, and passer-bys just looked and walked. Was shocking. I shouted and one kid who was peeing as we walked towards them, well, he peed on my back! My trousers were wet and I was disgusted! What a horribe experience. This we had never come across ever. In the end we managed to walk away from them and crossed the road. We were certain that those young children were "high" on something. Their eyes were all over the place.
We did manage to have a good time too and spent the last two evenings with good meals and drinks in the outdoor bar at the Khan's place where many expats hang out.
Seems we will be heading to Korea. Cannot go to Hong Kong via Russia or China as we need visas for both countries.
Yes, it was all a bit of a shock, but we are fine and sorting ourselves out now in Mongolia. we have looked at options and we have decided we want to avoid China, as it might give us a lot of problems again and we don't want to take any more risks. The best option would have been to get the visa again! and then go to Beijing and see the bits we haven't seen yet of China and then go to Hong Kong. But with the visa situation, nothing is guaranteed - how long it will take to get the visa. We met a couple from England who were stuck in Mongolia for 3 weeks waiting for their China visa. So we have decided we will instead go to Korea for 6 - 7 days before we go to Hong Kong. We do not need any visa for Korea and we don't need any visa for Hong Kong. We are planning to fly from Mongolia to Korea on 24th July. Everything is getting back into place again, and we are still laughing at our bad luck with China, and sometimes things are just not meant to be.
We are back in Oyuna hostel and the travellers we met before we headed for China were stunned to see us again. Some, terrified, as they were next to travel to China..
We spent our first night trying to figure out how we could get out of the country by going from travel agency to agency. As we got back to the hostel, we had a power cut and all of us in the hostel sat outdoors in the dark in the court yard just chatting. There were 8 of us - Americans, Danes and Brits. Most were working in China/Korea as English teachers.
We had a good few days to explore Ulaanbator further. We went to Ganden Monastery just near our hostel - it is lovely. Inside one of the temples it has a giant Buddha in golden colour. I managed to sneak a photo of it.
We went to a Thai restaurant with Michael Boedker - the Dane we met in our hostel. We were the only customer along with 4 people sitting at another table. 3 of them were Danish and one was American. One of the Danish girls got up and opened her top and went to the fan/cooler to cool down her front parts, the other Danish girl said "what are you doing", the first one answered "I have sweat between my tits" in Danish, Michael and I laughed, and then the second girl said "they are laughing at you", the first one said "who those there and she looked towards us", and then I answered in Danish "that is because we understand every word of what you are saying". She was so embarrassed and her friends could not stop laughing and the Danish guy with them said "never have I experienced this, this has got to be the funniest moment ever" - you should have been there to see their faces.
On our way home from the restaurant, we had the same 3-4 kids run at us and try to touch our pockets and standing in our ways. They had blocked our way the night before, when we were walking back to our hostel. One of the kids literally grabbed Amit's arms and his pockets and kept trying to hang on to him, Amit could have smacked him one, but he was a 11-13 year old and so he just pushed him off. They were so adamant, I was screaming at them, and passer-bys just looked and walked. Was shocking. I shouted and one kid who was peeing as we walked towards them, well, he peed on my back! My trousers were wet and I was disgusted! What a horribe experience. This we had never come across ever. In the end we managed to walk away from them and crossed the road. We were certain that those young children were "high" on something. Their eyes were all over the place.
We did manage to have a good time too and spent the last two evenings with good meals and drinks in the outdoor bar at the Khan's place where many expats hang out.
Seems we will be heading to Korea. Cannot go to Hong Kong via Russia or China as we need visas for both countries.
Wednesday, 23 July 2008
DITCHING CHINA FOR KOREA
21 July, 08, Ulaanbaatar
We have less than 2 weeks left of our world travel and with the Chinese encounter in Erlian, we have no desire to visit China again for a long time.
We have a flight from Hong Kong back to London and there are only 3 options of getting from UB to Hong Kong. Either we fly from UB to Beijing to Hong Kong, UB to Russia to Hong Kong or UB to Korea to Hong Kong. No visas required for Korea - so that is where we are going. No more hassle!
We fly to Korea on the 23rd July night and now we are just going to relax in UB in the boiling heat and blue sky...
We have less than 2 weeks left of our world travel and with the Chinese encounter in Erlian, we have no desire to visit China again for a long time.
We have a flight from Hong Kong back to London and there are only 3 options of getting from UB to Hong Kong. Either we fly from UB to Beijing to Hong Kong, UB to Russia to Hong Kong or UB to Korea to Hong Kong. No visas required for Korea - so that is where we are going. No more hassle!
We fly to Korea on the 23rd July night and now we are just going to relax in UB in the boiling heat and blue sky...
TRAVEL ADVICE FOR THE TRANSMONGOLIAN EXPRESS
USEFUL INFORMATION FOR THE TRANSMONGOLIAN EXPRESS
Journey time
Ulaanbaatar to Beijing - 30 hours (includes 1 hour wait at the Mongolian border and approx. 3-4 hours wait at the Chinese border).
Buying your ticket
It is of course cheapest if you buy the Transmongolian Express tickets yourself directly from the train station ticket office, but tickets are often sold out weeks before the departure date.
Most people (including myself) buy the tickets through an agent. If you buy through an agent in UK for example - it will be very expensive. I have found that it is cheapest to book through an agent in China rather than an agent in Mongolia. The price difference was about US$50!
We booked through http://www.juulchin.mn/ (Mongolian agency - one of the pricier - only know that now!) which cost us US$225 per person one way from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing on the Deluxe class. We had already paid for it, when another agent in China (http://www.oceantravel.cn/) quoted the same ticket for US$178 per person!
Seating/Sleepers in the Transmongolian Express - different classes
There are 3 different classes of travelling on the Transmongolian, which are:
Deluxe class (sleeper)
First class (soft sleeper)
Second class (hard sleeper)
The second class are obviously the cheapest and the price goes up depending on how comfortable you want to be.
In the second class and first class sleeper you share a compartment with other people. Each compartment sleeps 4 people, while the deluxe sleeps 2 people only.
We bought the deluxe sleeper as we did not want to share the compartment with anyone.
In the deluxe sleeper section, we had a lower and an upper bed, a single sofa, a small table, two small tv screens and headphones for each bed. We got clean white sheets and pillows with pillow covers, satin covers and hand towels. We even had a shower/bathroom which we shared with one other couple. We were given a kettle of hot water, cups, tea and coffee and refills whenever needed. The sleeper hed were comfortable and had a protection rail to avoid falling out of the upper bed.
When you leave Mongolia, you are on the Mongolia train. When you get to the border of China and Mongolia, there is a break for about 1,5 hrs - 3 hrs, when they are changing the train. Basically, you get off the train. The train moves, and the Chinese restaurant carriage is added to the train, and the Mongolian restaurant carriage is taken off. During all this time, you cannot use the toilets on the train - they lock the toilets. You will still be in the same carriage and compartment that you got on when you boarded in Mongolia. There are different versions of the Transmongolian trains. We were on a rather modern one, and very clean. We were impressed.
Restaurant in the Transmongolian Express
The train has a restaurant carriage. It has drinks, alchohol, food, snacks. Beware though, it is not cheap. The Mongolian food carriage has limited food and it is pricier than the Chinese food carriage (Chinese food carriage is only available when you get to the Chinese border, and the Mongolian food carriage is taken off). The menu on the Mongolian food carriage seemed to have a variety of things, but when we wanted to order, they only did a set menu. So basically, the entire train had the same set menu. It was really busy, so you had to book a slot to have your lunch. We booked for 2.30PM, but only managed to be seated for lunch at 3.30PM and had the food at 4PM. So, a good idea to bring your own food if you can. The food carriage can only sit about 4o people, so everything has to be done in slots. We skipped dinner as we didn't want to wait till very late, and the food carriage shuts at 7.30PM. So we lived on pot noodles.
Note: Drinks, especially water is expensive, so bring your own.
Note: You meet a lot of friendly travellers in the food carriage.
Toilet facilities in the Transmongolian Express
We were lucky to have a bathroom with one other couple. It was cleaned twice while we were on the train. Otherwise, you have the public toilets on the train. They are ok, but I suspect that after 10 hours or so, it gets quite dirty. There is toilet paper, but bring your own to be safe.
What to bring on your journey
If you are sleeping in 2nd class or first class, bring toilet paper, hand towel, a cup/mug (you can get free hot water from the stewards on the train) and your own tea bags.
It is very useful (if you want to save money) to bring your own snacks, drinking water, fruits and even pot noodles (we did - remember you can get the hot water on the train), plastic spoons/forks. Bring your camera - there are so many pretty spots, a book or ipod/music as it is a long journey. Many people bring alchohol with them too.
At the border controls
When you are leaving the Mongolian border, the Mongolian police check the trains and take your passports. You are likely to be at the border for 1-2 hours before the train moves again. It is quite pain-less.
Then the train drives off again for about 15-20 minutes, when you get to the Chinese border at Erlian, here the immigration police enters the train, collects the passports and it takes 4 hours before they leave the border to head for Beijing. Now, make sure that your visa is in order.
Our visa WAS in order, but it was not honoured by the Chinese immigration. It is a long story (and we are still very disappointed and angry about the situation, but when it comes to the Chinese immigation police, you cannot do anything!). Make sure that your visa is properly given by the Chinese embassy.
So a 30 hours journey from UB to Beijing should really just have taken 24 hours, but the border control checks adds hours!
Journey time
Ulaanbaatar to Beijing - 30 hours (includes 1 hour wait at the Mongolian border and approx. 3-4 hours wait at the Chinese border).
Buying your ticket
It is of course cheapest if you buy the Transmongolian Express tickets yourself directly from the train station ticket office, but tickets are often sold out weeks before the departure date.
Most people (including myself) buy the tickets through an agent. If you buy through an agent in UK for example - it will be very expensive. I have found that it is cheapest to book through an agent in China rather than an agent in Mongolia. The price difference was about US$50!
We booked through http://www.juulchin.mn/ (Mongolian agency - one of the pricier - only know that now!) which cost us US$225 per person one way from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing on the Deluxe class. We had already paid for it, when another agent in China (http://www.oceantravel.cn/) quoted the same ticket for US$178 per person!
Seating/Sleepers in the Transmongolian Express - different classes
There are 3 different classes of travelling on the Transmongolian, which are:
Deluxe class (sleeper)
First class (soft sleeper)
Second class (hard sleeper)
The second class are obviously the cheapest and the price goes up depending on how comfortable you want to be.
In the second class and first class sleeper you share a compartment with other people. Each compartment sleeps 4 people, while the deluxe sleeps 2 people only.
We bought the deluxe sleeper as we did not want to share the compartment with anyone.
In the deluxe sleeper section, we had a lower and an upper bed, a single sofa, a small table, two small tv screens and headphones for each bed. We got clean white sheets and pillows with pillow covers, satin covers and hand towels. We even had a shower/bathroom which we shared with one other couple. We were given a kettle of hot water, cups, tea and coffee and refills whenever needed. The sleeper hed were comfortable and had a protection rail to avoid falling out of the upper bed.
When you book your ticket, make sure you are getting the right ticket you want to buy. When you deal with the agents, it is quite confusing what you are getting. Each of them say different things, so just be on your toes.
The TrainsWhen you leave Mongolia, you are on the Mongolia train. When you get to the border of China and Mongolia, there is a break for about 1,5 hrs - 3 hrs, when they are changing the train. Basically, you get off the train. The train moves, and the Chinese restaurant carriage is added to the train, and the Mongolian restaurant carriage is taken off. During all this time, you cannot use the toilets on the train - they lock the toilets. You will still be in the same carriage and compartment that you got on when you boarded in Mongolia. There are different versions of the Transmongolian trains. We were on a rather modern one, and very clean. We were impressed.
Restaurant in the Transmongolian Express
The train has a restaurant carriage. It has drinks, alchohol, food, snacks. Beware though, it is not cheap. The Mongolian food carriage has limited food and it is pricier than the Chinese food carriage (Chinese food carriage is only available when you get to the Chinese border, and the Mongolian food carriage is taken off). The menu on the Mongolian food carriage seemed to have a variety of things, but when we wanted to order, they only did a set menu. So basically, the entire train had the same set menu. It was really busy, so you had to book a slot to have your lunch. We booked for 2.30PM, but only managed to be seated for lunch at 3.30PM and had the food at 4PM. So, a good idea to bring your own food if you can. The food carriage can only sit about 4o people, so everything has to be done in slots. We skipped dinner as we didn't want to wait till very late, and the food carriage shuts at 7.30PM. So we lived on pot noodles.
Note: Drinks, especially water is expensive, so bring your own.
Note: You meet a lot of friendly travellers in the food carriage.
Toilet facilities in the Transmongolian Express
We were lucky to have a bathroom with one other couple. It was cleaned twice while we were on the train. Otherwise, you have the public toilets on the train. They are ok, but I suspect that after 10 hours or so, it gets quite dirty. There is toilet paper, but bring your own to be safe.
What to bring on your journey
If you are sleeping in 2nd class or first class, bring toilet paper, hand towel, a cup/mug (you can get free hot water from the stewards on the train) and your own tea bags.
It is very useful (if you want to save money) to bring your own snacks, drinking water, fruits and even pot noodles (we did - remember you can get the hot water on the train), plastic spoons/forks. Bring your camera - there are so many pretty spots, a book or ipod/music as it is a long journey. Many people bring alchohol with them too.
At the border controls
When you are leaving the Mongolian border, the Mongolian police check the trains and take your passports. You are likely to be at the border for 1-2 hours before the train moves again. It is quite pain-less.
Then the train drives off again for about 15-20 minutes, when you get to the Chinese border at Erlian, here the immigration police enters the train, collects the passports and it takes 4 hours before they leave the border to head for Beijing. Now, make sure that your visa is in order.
Our visa WAS in order, but it was not honoured by the Chinese immigration. It is a long story (and we are still very disappointed and angry about the situation, but when it comes to the Chinese immigation police, you cannot do anything!). Make sure that your visa is properly given by the Chinese embassy.
So a 30 hours journey from UB to Beijing should really just have taken 24 hours, but the border control checks adds hours!
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